Wednesday, 5 December 2012

Hitching and the Hitched


Ke kwala thata (I write a lot)
--so now I’ve decided to be lazy and simplify this blog with dot points--
The blog combines two very amazing and culturally insightful weekends I had; one is about the weekend I hitched with a friend around Eastern bots, and the other is about a local village wedding I attended.

Hitching weekend
To the worried adults: please note that hitching is a legitimate form of transport in Botswana. There are informal ‘hitching’ points around the country that locals line up at, typically a bus stand, to wave down any passing traffic. You generally pay the driver a bit of cash either less than, or the same as, an equivalent bus fare.

The events of this weekend played out as follows:
-After 2 buses and 1 hitch ride, arrived at Moremi Village in Tswapong hills – Eastern Bots. Camped on a cattle farmer’s plot by his huts.
-Witnessed the first desert rains, complete with epic thunder and lightning
 
-Visited the spiritual Moremi Gorge – also only 1 of 2 places in Bots where the cape vultures breed.

The next day and 5 separate hitch rides later (with admittedly long waits in remote areas, opting not to take a ride on a back of a ute with a dead cow carcass) we went further east to Bobonong. Some locals let us stay at their place, letting us loose in their house when they went out; amazing hospitality and trust!

 

From Bobonong we headed to Matlhabaneng on a monster truck. Conversations went from the usual introductory ‘hi/what’s your name/ where are you from’ etc to them revealing a sincere dislike for their government, claiming that to get by in Bots they had to resort to thieving and elephant poaching. Following their self-confessions, we were relieved they had no quarrel with us and we peacefully hopped off by a small corner store in the somewhat deserted town, getting a few bemused looks by locals as though we were the last things they expected to appear.

We joined the local shop keepers when they went to restock from the nearby farm (the place was sheer greenery in the middle of the desert) where we were able to pitch our tent for the night. The farm itself was more like a community with 800+ people including families that were born, raised and worked there.

We met Zimbabwean refugees (ex-border jumpers) and local ladies who were carrying out HIV-AIDS testing in the compound. Apart from being amazingly friendly/ fun people, they had truly insightful stories to tell. The sort that really make you appreciate the life and conditions you have been given (too long to detail, but always happy to chat if you’re interested!)

Visited ‘Solomans wall’ – a pretty cool geological formation nearby – and almost ran into some less-than-friendly elephants. Climbed some rocks as usual and admired the surrounding landscape.


The hitched
A local friend of mine, Glow, knew someone who was having a traditional village wedding; these types of weddings are open to everyone. Audrey, Michael and I tagged along to see how it all works! About the wedding/Batswana wedding’s in general:
-First of all, when a man wants to marry a woman he must ‘offer’ cattle to her uncle as a ‘bride price.’
-Weddings are typically open to everyone and the groom must cater for all – lots of food!
-Age seems of little consequence; we were perplexed as to why the bride’s father was sitting between her and the groom. It was then we realised that she wasn’t next to her ‘father’ but that the groom was just… a bit older. The other guy was just the best-man.

-Traditionally a man would organize to marry the daughter of a good family long before she was of age. He would look at the family, see if they were well-tempered and decree that he would marry their daughter when she was old enough – even if a mere baby in a womb. Not sure what the case was with this wedding.
-Church service comes first with A LOT of singing.

-The bridal party wears matching clothes. They change the clothes at LEAST once (often more) in the wedding ceremony. Again, all matching outfits and perfectly tailored.

-Similarly, the bride changes wedding dresses a couple of times and the groom and groomsmen do likewise.
-Photos are taken in a nearby landscape (incidentally, we seemed to be novel enough to feature in many)

-Car horns sound almost the ENTIRE day in celebration and women make that weird ‘war cry’ noise “a-le-le-le-leeeeehhhh!” (well that’s the only way I can really try to relate the noise).

-DANCING! After all the formalities, the bridesmaids and groomsmen start the dancing, and then anyone can join. The instant I joined on this, a HUGE crowd surrounded me – the Lekgoa (white person) was dancing! A local would pull a move, I would copy and then someone would say “Lekgoa o itse go bina!” (The Lekgoa knows how to dance!). I’m not sure what they found so great about it, but they loved it in any case. For me, it was just great fun! Despite feeling sick, even Audrey joined in and felt better for it -- though we both ended the day with pounding heads.

-In many ways, the wedding reminded me a lot of what it would be like back home. But then certain practices or just a glance at your surroundings would bring you back to where you were. ‘Same same’ but different!

Sunday, 2 December 2012

How McGuiver would cook if he lived in Botswana


Ke itse go apaya mme ga ke na ‘kitchen’…
--I know how to cook but I don’t have a kitchen --
If there is an excuse to bake a cake for an occasion (centenary dives, end of schools/semesters, parties, birthdays, meetings and gatherings…) and I feel so inclined, I will do it. At the start of the semester here there was a spurt of birthdays and one of them was Kaylee’s, I decided it would be fun to take up the challenge of baking an epic birthday cake with a borrowed kitchen of admittedly limited resources.
One of my pet loves is to use everything to its fullest and turn waste to something useful –therefore the cake was the perfect excuse to do just that to compensate for the limited utilities at my disposal. I call it cake-baking-McGuiver style. 

The challenges and solutions are as follows:
Challenge: No Cake pan – only a roasting pan
Solution: Baking brownie ‘slices’ in the pan and stacking them to form a cake.

Challenge: No piping bag for decoration
Solution: Taking a pepsi lid and using a pocket-knife to cut slits in it and the attached pliers to pull out the resulting ‘triangular’ formations as pictured. Then using sticky tape and a clean plastic bag with a slit in the corner to complete the bag.



·       \ Challenge: No spatulas to remove said brownie slice from pan.
Solution: Wooden spoons shuffled slowly bit by bit along the sides of the slices and into the middle, one under each side, to lift the brownie slices out with the addition of helping hands.
·         Challenge: No whisk, hand-held or electric, to beat the cream.
Solution: Two forks interlinked together (and patience) to beat the cream.
·         Challenge: No measuring cup
Solution: An empty 1L bottle cut at approximately ¼ of the capacity (250ml)
·         Challenge: No stencil or similar for writing ‘happy birthday’ decoration.
Solution: A plastic salad bowl lid with letters roughly written on (with eye liner as nothing else would mark the plastic) and then cut out one by one with a little pocket knife.

·         Challenge: No sieve for sprinkling the icing sugar
Solution: A grater to reduce the volume of icing sugar sprinkled across the stencil. Then extreme patience and a deeply held breath to lift the stencil without spilling the excess sugar and destroying the letters.

·         Challenge: No food processor with which to crumble the biscuits for the ‘cookies n cream’ filling.
Solution: Placing said biscuit packets in tightly-sealed plastic bags and repeatedly ‘bashing’ these bags against the walls, floor and anything hard (yes, this was quite fun!)
The result? A stacked brownie cake with chocolate glaze, cookies and cream icing filling and piped caramel decorations. And of course, a happy Kaylee and cake consumers.














General food without a kitchen
In an effort to make students eat at the refectories (cafeteria’s) on campus, there are no kitchens in the undergraduate dorms. Of course, in a country with a beef dominated industry you can imagine that the vegetarian food isn’t very good. Don’t get me wrong, at “Moghul” there is a cheap (<$2), incredibly filling meal with vegetarian options, but given that it is the same meal every single day you tend to crave some variety. So I came up with a few solutions to satisfy my cravings for good, healthy food without a kitchen.

Basic Guacamole “Bruschetta”
Ingredients: Tomato, onion, lemon juice, ripe avocadoes and ‘pesto parmesan’ salted seasoning.
Base: Rye/Maize ‘crispbread’
In short: I diced the tomatos/onions, mashed the avocados with the plastic forks I’ve been re-using from take-out and added the lemon juice and seasoning to taste. The effect of the seasoning and the lemon juice with the onion and tomato really does recreate a bruschetta effect. The crispbread, whilst on its own is strange and sticks to the roof of your mouth, actually merges perfectly with the avocado mix and resembles a more ‘toast’ like texture.
Budget: This is actually a reasonably cheap thing to make if you know where to buy things. Avocadoes can be <$2 for a 6 pack of small ones at pick and pay but easily double that if you go to woollies/spar.

Vegie Burger
Ingredients: Frozen vegie patties (Fry’s brand), beetroot, tomato, lettuce, chakalaka (or other chutney/sauce), gouda/cheddar cheese
Base: Phaphatha (An ‘english-muffin’ style bread accessible everywhere).
In many respects this is like a sandwich and therefore not too complicated – the main challenge is reheating and defrosting the patty. This is where the kettle comes in. You leave the lid of the kettle open and prop a container in the top that just fits so that it rests there and doesn’t fall in. Inside this, you put the patty. Place water about ½- ¾ up the kettle and let it boil. With the little opening it’ll probably keep boiling and won’t turn off. Once it’s warm, it’s good!
Budget: Veggie burgers on special were $2 for four. Phaphtha is always <25c. Then there’s the veggies etc, but these don’t add much to the cost.

Salads:
When everyone thinks of salad they think of ‘garnish’ (ie not very filling). But provided you have a good protein source and perhaps some form of carbs (crispbread/phaphatha etc) it can make quite a decent meal.
Eggs: One of the main things I add to a salad is egg (my protein! Om nom nom). Using the kettle you can prepare your eggs in pretty much 2 ways; boiled or scrambled.  I opt for the former. First I boil the water at half capacity and then add some cold water. Then I add the eggs. If I add it when its boiling often the temperature differential seems to make it crack, (which makes a mess) so I add it when its ‘hot’ and then boil from there. Similarly, if I add it at the start, the kettle boils too quickly and causes the eggs to ‘bounce’ around and smash against each other. Obviously a kettle doesn’t continuously boil, so I let it rest between periodic boils (ie 2-3 boils).

Some kind of fat: I won’t find a salad filling unless there’s some kind of fat. So I’ll either keep the egg yolk (if an egg salad) or add avocado or nuts or cheese.
Beans: Sometimes I’ll use tinned beans instead of egg as a protein (+carb) filling replacement.
Veggies: I’ll start with a salad base (either lettuce or carrots depending on price and seasonality) and pretty much always have tomato (this is one thing they actually grow in east Bots). Other additions include onion, beetroot (it abounds in southern Africa; its one of their staple ‘salad’ sides), peppers (capsicum), cucumber etc. Other times I will get some misc selections from pick n pay.
FLAVOUR: This is the key to me enjoying my meal. I’ll often add dried mixed herbs (basil/oregano/thyme type of mix), pepper, peri-salt or the pesto parmesan seasoning and top it off with some simply dressing (ie a greek salad/yogurt mix or honey mustard).
Michelle + her dose of vegetables = Happy.

Real-brewed coffee
The fanciest coffee venue on campus has the motto ‘mix-it-the-way-you-like!’ That is, this fancy coffee blend, is just instant coffee. Yup. Deciding I wanted a real brewed coffee on a budget, I constructed a make-shift cost-less coffee filter system instead and spent the money on real ground coffee from Woolworths (note Woolworths in Africa is not the same as the one in Aus, it is more of a fancy grocers).

Construction of the coffee filter:
·         I took the disposable coffee cup from my plane trip and poked 4-holes in the bottom.
·         I took the lid from one of the take-away salad containers and make a whole in the middle of the cup to rest in, whilst the ‘skirt’ (ie remainder of the lid) could then be propped ontop of the cup the coffee is being filtered into. I line this with a coffee filter, place 1-2T of coffee in this and let it trickle/brew through the coffee grounds into the cup below.
And there I had it; quality coffee (I generally add some milk too of course)….

                The transition to iced coffee
Alas, despite my love for coffee, on the incredibly intense hot days that frequent Gabs, I decided I had to make a brewed cold coffee. To do this, I brew the coffee as usual, add sugar and/or hot chocolate mix and dissolve. I top up with some water, sometimes cinnamon and always ‘caramel essence.’ I finish with the addition of cold milk and leave it in the fridge to cool. For desert, we sometimes add “Amarula” (African equivalent of Baileys bur better). You’ll have to taste it to appreciate it…
Warm-hot milk
If ever I want to make warm/hot milk, I follow a process similar to the defrosting mentioned above. I pop the milk in a container and rest it at the top of the kettle making sure the water level at least hits the bottom. I put the lid on the container to speed up the heating process. A couple of mixes and minutes later, some hot milk!

General meals at Refectories on campus
There are two refectories on campus; Moghul and Curry Pot. The latter is pretty bad for vegetarians, but the former at least has options.
For 15.50 pula(<$2) at Moghul you can get a plate of:
Sorghum/beans
Veggie Patty
Salad (either mashed pumpkin, beetroot or typical green salad)
Fruit or Milk

I only dare Moghul at lunch times. They heap so much onto your plate (and Sorghum is verrryy heavy and filling) that I can’t eat for hours after a Moghul meal.

Thanks-giving Dinner
Most of the international kids at UB were from America, so naturally we celebrated their Thanksgiving pot-luck style, with everyone bringing their own kettle-creations.

Other ways to make use of Waste
So I like my cordial/ soft drinks and these obviously come in (generally) plastic bottles. Problem? There is no plastic recycling on campus or in Gaborone for that matter. Oh, and I am a bit of an OCD anti-waste Nazi.
Solutions (or part there of – apart from trying to drink cordial rather than soft drinks as these dilute and go further per plastic bottle)…

In their full form –
·         Water carriers for camping
With a bit of chopping
·         Bottles cut in half and used as stationary holders, pinned into my pin-board
·         Smaller plastic bottles, also cut in half, used as light-weight wine classes when camping. Also good for hot chocolate/ coffee in the morning.
·         Similarly, bottles with the end cut-off are great ‘spare’ cups for when you have friends around for tea and only one mug…
·         Given the known volume of bottles, you can cut them off in approximate sizes as measuring cups (ie ½ cup or 1 cup)

Additionally
·         Plastic tubs (yogurt /small ice cream tubs etc) make perfect carriers for jelly and you know the volume for measurement purposes. They also make good containers for housing fruit salad/ left over food and brewing coffee in the process of preparing the ice coffee mix.
·         Cardboard boxes such as museli bar boxes etc: These can be formed into cutlery holders (meanwhile you can hang on to and re-use the disposable cutlery from take away) and additional stationary holders.
·         Disposable coffee cup/ bottle: Also pinned to the pinboard, these can house museli bars.
·         The general obvious: by keeping my little plastic collections, I’ve been able to take portions of food camping in containers (ie sugar) and provide little nibble-mixes for our in room movie sessions with laptops =P



The above pic contains: clothes line made of unused telephone cable, museli bar holders (paper cups pinned to the wall), plastic container housing headbands, half-bottles containing scissors, nail clippers, pens, pencils, etc, a cardboard box halve holding my calculator/eraser etc.... packets of nuts also pinned, plastic bags to be used for rubbish.... It was my 'everything' pinboard. the rooms were like shoeboxes so you needed to save space somehow...


Tuesday, 27 November 2012

'Rocking Botswana' -- Mosetsana style


The tale of Romeo and Juliet is far from a unique one and even in a little town called Otse, an hour South of Gaborone, there is a similar storey of tragic romance.  It is said that there were once two lovers from warring tribes who fell in love and, forbidden from being together, ran away to the village hill and were never seen again. It is rumoured that their spirits/ghosts inhabit the hill and that the laughter of their children can be heard at night – additionally, it is believed that if locals were to venture there that, they too, would disappear.

You can probably already guess that I, together with two friends: Audrey and Jenipher, decided it would be a great place to explore and climb new rocks – doing so as an overnight trip from Gabs. The going was undoubtedly much tougher than at Kgale hill with our efforts hampered by large packs containing sufficient water supplies, tents, sleeping gear, cooking gear and food. 

More challenging, the hill was structured in a series of ‘step’ like blocks that would involve reasonably easy rock scrambles across/upwards only to be followed by much more vertical approaches. At some stages we had no choice but to pass our bags along to each other in a chain so that we could manage pressure climbs forward and upward without compromising our hold and centre of gravity. After all, this wasn’t exactly a proper rock-climbing expedition with ropes or harnesses.
Our intention had been originally to get to the top of the hill and pitch a tent, but night approached during our climb. With no idea how far we actually were from the top, we weren’t too certain about precariously climbing and scrambling with our packs in such low light. We popped our bags down and I scouted ahead. I avoided going too far as I didn’t want to lose the others in the dark, which proved to be a good decision --  even in the small distance I went, the way back was difficult to find in darkness and in the reverse direction. But the scouting wasn’t all for nothing; I found a small but adequate ledge for us to sleep on, albeit not appropriate for setting up tents.

So that night we slept wedged between some rocks on the side of the hill with a great view of the small town below us and the starry sky above us. Sometimes nothing beats sleeping under the stars with fresh, breezy air.

The next day we strategically began our descent, continually weaving our way downwards based on the most manageable routes. One of these was chosen by Audrey’s sleeping bag when it went flying off her bag and into the shrub below – lucky enough it was just accessible. We knew we hit civilization again when we heard the sounds of cows greeting us at the base of the hill. On the bus trip back, however, we were probably the least civilized creatures around with hair teased up by sharp thorns and branches, twigs sticking out of our clothes and hair and covered in dirt from head to toe. This still didn’t stop us stylishly rocking up at Mugg and Bean for pancakes and coffee for breakfast.

Of course, in hindsight there were several things we could’ve done a lot more intelligently. We should’ve started the climb much earlier, avoiding doing it into night, carried better lighting and perhaps not have been so determined to keep going past certain points. We were also somewhat lucky it didn’t rain. On the plus side, we did carry first-aid kits, sufficient supplies of water, and mobiles with reception, told people where we went and kept a decent ‘team-work’ ethic.
Audrey, Jen and I might pretty bad influences on each other though..


Malaka and Phaphatha
Otse hill only seemed to whet our appetite for climbing rocks; in a country with no water to go ‘down’ in, the next best thing is to go up. A few weekends later, we thus headed to a small, obscure village called Malaka in the Tswapong hills – Eastern Botswana. On route we stopped via the transit town of Palaypye where we gobbled down giant chunks of watermelon, face-in-watermelon style, whilst awaiting our next bus to Malaka in the blistering heat.  Watermelon juice dribbling down our chin and clothes in the most inelegant way possible, we copped a few bemused looks by the locals.


Once at Malaka, we ended up making our own way to Old Palapye – a historical area that had previously been occupied during times of Livingstone’s mission where he had established a church.
The day was intensely hot, the track was sandy and our packs heavy, but we slogged onwards to the old church ruins where we established camp for the night. Nearby the church, and extremely rare for Botswana, was a tiny Gorge where a little stream of water trickled from a natural underground spring, supplying us with our cooking and drinking needs. With a feast of cous-cous, popcorn, hot chocolates and mochas, we hung out in the silhouette of the ruined church walls, watching the stars and chatting.



     
The next day we returned to the Gorge early in the morning before our guide was due to arrive and repeated our newly-developing rock scrambling obsession. It was Jen, Audrey and I once more, but this time we had also roped Kaylee into our mischief. From the top of the gorge we could see the green tops of trees all around, quite a contrast to the rest of Botswana and a consequence of both the recent rains and ground spring-water.

A local guide, Cisco, met us at the church ruins to show us around the rest of the old settlement area and concluded with an even more beautiful gorge and spring. We were stunned to see green grass lining these small gorges where the streams trickled by, creating the feeling that we really had stepped out of Botswana and into a fertile paradise where literally hundreds of butterflies flew by. As simple as it was, we got a huge pleasure from just flopping onto soft green grass without having a plethora of different types, sizes and shapes of prickles embedding themselves somewhere.  We could understand how, in such a somewhat ‘barren’ country, such a beautiful gorge has religious and sacred values to the local people. Finally back in Palaype we rewarded our sore, stiff, bruised selves with cold delicious ice-cream before shuffling back on the bus for another ride back to Gabs.